This is a trip for people who want to understand Edinburgh rather than just photograph it. Over two full days — three if you move at a considered pace — you'll follow the spine of the Old Town from the castle ramparts down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, filling in the city's layered history along the way. It suits curious travellers who read the wall text, who want a pint in a close that's been there since the 1500s, and who'd rather walk an extra mile than take a taxi.

Start at Edinburgh Castle and spend genuine time inside — the National War Museum alone rewards an unhurried hour. From there, join the Royal Mile Walking Tour or the Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tour (do both if you can; they cover different ground) to get your bearings before going solo. Duck below street level at Real Mary King's Close, then surface to St Giles' Cathedral and the Writers' Museum, which puts Burns, Scott and Stevenson in sharp relief. Pay your respects to Greyfriars Bobby, then walk the Canongate down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse and, if the sitting schedule allows, the Scottish Parliament Building — an architectural argument worth having. Cap each evening with a climb: Calton Hill at sunset on day one, Arthur's Seat on day two if your legs are willing, or the gentler Holyrood Park circuit if they're not. The Old Town rewards walkers who look up, look down, and take their time.