The San Felipe fortress sits on a hill just outside the old city walls and gives you a solid overview of Cartagena's military past. Expect a steep 20-minute uphill walk or a quick taxi ride to the entrance, then about 90 minutes wandering tunnels, ramparts, and cannon batteries. The views over the city and harbor are genuinely impressive, especially at sunset, but the site gets brutally hot and crowded by mid-morning. Guides explain how the Spanish held off pirates and later the English; the tunnels are the most interesting part for most people.
Best time is December to February when it's drier and slightly cooler. Expect to pay around $15–30 per person for a small-group tour with transport and a decent English-speaking guide; solo entry is cheaper but less informative. Skip the big bus tours that dump 40 people at once. Instead, either join a small walking tour early in the morning or hire a private guide if you're traveling with family or want real depth. Bring water, wear a hat, and don't bother with the overpriced snacks at the top—grab something cold back in Getsemaní afterward.
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