Athens is one of those rare cities where you can stand inside a 2,500-year-old temple in the morning and eat outrageously good modern Greek cuisine on a rooftop that same evening, the Parthenon glowing gold behind your wine glass. Most luxury travelers treat it as a layover to the islands — that's a mistake. The city has undergone a quiet renaissance, with world-class hotels, a thriving contemporary art scene, and a dining culture that rivals anything in Barcelona or Rome, all at a fraction of the pretension.
Skip the midday crowds and arrange a private licensed guide for late afternoon entry, when the marble turns amber and the tour buses have retreated....
The light between 5 and 7 PM in shoulder season is genuinely transcendent — this is when you understand why the Greeks built here. Several luxury concierges, including those at the Grande Bretagne and Amanzoe's Athens liaison, can arrange small-group archaeological walks that include restricted areas most visitors never see.