Expect a lively, crowded street scene packed with locals and a decent number of tourists. You'll find rows of food stalls selling grilled meats, noodles, fresh juices, and lots of deep-fried snacks, mixed in with vendors hawking cheap clothes, phone accessories, and random souvenirs. The atmosphere is noisy, smoky from all the grills, and energetic until around 10pm. It's authentic rather than polished—no fancy seating, just plastic stools and paper plates.
The best time to visit is December to February when the weather is cooler and drier. Go between 6pm and 9pm; it gets going early and starts thinning out after 9:30. Expect to pay around $8–20 total per person if you're eating and grabbing a couple of drinks—most individual dishes run $1.50–4. A full meal with beer or fresh coconut water usually lands in the middle of that range.
Honest tips: definitely get the grilled skewers and fresh spring rolls—they're reliably good and cooked in front of you. Skip the pre-made fried items that have been sitting under heat lamps; they're usually soggy. Wear comfortable shoes you don't mind getting dusty, and keep small bills handy since many stalls prefer cash.